Tuesday, 27 October 2015

Bangkok for the first time? Here are a few tips from this frequent visitor...

Bangkok (BK) is one my my favourite places. It's an onslaught on the senses to which I'm so accustomed by now, but it can be very overwhelming for first timers and solo travellers, so I've put together a few tips to help ease you and my fellow SAfricans smoothly into BK.  May your experiences in this unique city be amazing at every turn...

At Suvarnabuhmi airport (don't even try pronounce that) ~ 
* Be aware that African and South American citizens have to fill out Ebola forms which must be signed by a doctor on site. The forms and the doc are at a booth near to where you disembark from the plane;
* NB the immigration queue is long, can take up to an hour to get your passport stamped;
* Make sure you fill out the arrival/departure forms on the plane or do so in the Q-there are helpful officials everywhere;
* Get a local sim card at the airport once you’re through immigration: AIS/DTAC networks etc, all offer amazing inexpensive packages - you'll have no need for 'roaming' and can negate those hidden expenses that tend to pop up no matter what.

The Q at the airport...people for days...


Greeting Thai people ~
* Be courteous- women greet saying 'Sawadee Kha' and guys say 'Sawadee khap'. It's also appreciated if you put the prayer hands together under your chin in response to the same. 

Transport to & in town ~
* If you’re worried about getting lost, book a shuttle through your hotel (pricey, up to 1,200 THB);
* Or take a taxi- and barter - the fare shouldn't cost you more than 400-500 THB;
* Or, my choice if I have a lot of luggage,  Uber (cashless) - rather use Uber Black in BK and make sure you have downloaded the app before you leave SA (if you're an Uber newbie, use my Uber code uberCTdiva for a once-off free ride in SA);
* If you’re confident re your directions (as I am by now) and only have 1 carry-on bag (one can really travel light in Thailand, even if you're a 'diva'), take the bus (30 THB) to the Mo Chit BTS station and then a skytrain to your hotel (cheap and fast).
* Re getting around in the city, Tuk Tuks are fun but impractical and way overpriced - cool for a once-off experience but that's about it;
* The BTS Skytrain is the easiest and so cheap. Buy day/week passes. Exchange bank notes for coins at the info booth and they will happily explain how the system works.
* You can also catch a ride with the licenced scooter guys (in lumo jackets) parked near the BTS stations...it's a lot of fun for short distances, and from 10 THB depending on where you're off to;
* Don't eat on the platform / station / train. Keep your grub out of site.
* Obey the arrow markings on the platform that tell you where to stand safely when Q'ing to get on the train

Typical BTS station below...the numbers encircled denote the cost to each destination...


Try a Tuk Tuk once for fun...but be prepared to bargain! Random leg hoists are optional :)

Blow your hair back a bit on a scooter... such FUN!


Hotel ~
* Choose accommodation close to a BTS stop. I can recommend the Galleria 10 in Soi 10, Sukhumvit, right between BTS Nana and Asok - it's stylish, well priced and has a fab rooftop pool, bar and deck. 



Mosquitoes ~
* Never leave your hotel, day or night, without generously spraying repellent (NB to use an eco friendly brand); leave no patch of skin unprotected-the blighters will find it and bite it! 
* To soothe itchy bites, use tiger balm (sold at 711’s) or Dermovate if you react badly to BK mozzie bites like I do (sold at Pharmacies / Boots that stay open late, like pretty much everything else in BK)

Street Food ~
* Totally safe, delicious, traditional and oh-so-cheap - sit and eat...it's a great experience and you have to try the incredible noodle dishes and the sweet sticky rice with coconut milk and mango (for the best, go to Mae Varee in Thong Lor , one of my fave areas as well);
* Those orange drinks you see on sale on the street in the small skinny bottles are loaded with extra sugar fyi; let them make it and also pomegranate juice in front of you- very refreshing when done right;
* Bottled water only people, even when rinsing after brushing your teeth

Mango, coconut cream and sticky rice...



Flat noodles etc...best!


Fresh pomegranate juice...


Emergency dentist ~
* Dental Hospital. 88/88 Sukhamvit 49

Street dogs & cats ~
* Don’t assume they’re all friendly-they're not all used to being petted; those with collars are usually ok but be cautious and check first with the person/owner nearest to the animal. I want to love them all but need to approach carefully...(collared) cats on the other hand...


Cat love...



Coffee & Beer ~
* There is superb coffee in very stylish coffee shops in Bangkok, as good and sometimes even better as what's on offer in Cape Town. Try Rocket in Central Embassy, Hello Strangers, Blue Dye Cafe, Library ;
* Beer is nothing like what I am used in Cape Town ie our fabulous home grown craft beer, but go for Singha when in BK...and make it even more refreshing by adding ice. Yes, trust me, with eish.

Singha, with ice...


Coffee at Blue Dye Cafe...


And iced coffee from Hello Strangers...


Shopping ~
* There are tons of shopping centre monoliths in BK but I prefer the slick environment and the best movie house in town at Siam Paragon , and right next door is Siam Centre an ode to emerging designers, and of course Central Embassy showcases it's winning design and architecture, although shopping here is mostly for those with black plastic;
* Shopping at street stalls (try the ones across from Siam Centre where there’s also a fabulous little mall) is fantastic, if you’re after those floppy pants and vintage style voile shirts and quirky frocks. Stalls are set up from around 5pm every day;
* Fake watches, and all other labels, at the markets…rather not. They only last around 6 months. And they look cheap.  

Massages off street ~
* Amazing and cheap but take care to suss out how clean they are before laying your tired bod down on a grubby towel

Laundry ~
* Drop it off at any street laundry service - it comes back beautifully packaged, ironed and ready to wear. Way more reasonable than at your hotel. Prices start at 30 THB per kilo. (Leave your Prada shirts for the pro laundromats at home)

Other ~
* Bring extra Ziploc bags and 100ml empty plastic bottles. You can't find those easily in BK.
* Re tipping, it's not expected but why not show some love and do it anyway. 
* Be respectful of the King of Thailand and his family. 
* Leave your shoes outside establishments where it's required. Never fear, they'll be there when you go back for the them. This is a country where stealing isn't a national pastime. 

Bon voyage! การเดินทางที่ปลอดภัย !

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Sunday, 10 May 2015

The Mani Hotel in Berlin, a perfect Diva getaway

I travel extensively and it’s rare for me to find a boutique hotel that goes far beyond it’s star rating. Such is the Mani in Mitte, Berlin. 3 stars officially but closer to 5 stars in my opinion. Recommended to me by a Parisian friend in Cape Town, this is a very chic establishment, part of the Amano Group, that clearly prides itself on providing a superior product to guests. From the decor, to the fittings, fixtures and excellent service of the front of house and restaurant managers and even our room cleaning duo, the all-seeing eyes watching over this group miss nothing and the result is a high standard of professionalism and a noticeable and refreshing attention to detail. 

Lateral Paul and I arrived in Berlin from Paris last week, stepped out of our Uber , walked into the Mani and immediately felt its atmosphere of style and class without any of the pretentiousness that usually accompanies such establishments. Our kind of place, no doubt about it. We were warmly welcomed and made to feel right at home.

The hotel, open since 2012, is situated in the vibrant area called Mitte, perfectly located for exploring the city, and surrounded by cool stores, restaurants and bars that make you want to hang about all day and night like a local. 

The Mani building, interior and rooms were designed by Ester Bruzkus who is also responsible for the beautiful Amano Hotel around the corner. Bruzkus clearly has great taste and I love her use of high quality materials like the real wood parquet flooring and leather wall coverings. Striking photographs by Oliver Rath cover the walls, and the ZooZoo animal art that's placed here, there and everywhere is a stunning decor addition. There’s Esmeralda the Alligator, who is afraid of ending up as a clutch; Estelle the Basset who loves shopping bags and the smell of fresh food; the yellow giraffe at the front desk window that made me homesick for Africa, and Parzival the baby lion lying sleeping on the foyer mat who is expected to become a superior hunter some day. All quirky and adorable. 

There are 63 luxuriously appointed rooms at the Mani, soundproofed so that nothing disturbs your beauty sleep. The hotel offers free wifi, something hardly anyone can do without these days. If you happen to have had a blonde moment and left a gadget behind (quelle horror, how could you?) fret not, because you can rent one from Reception, an iPad or a laptop. Very convenient and a thoughtful offering on the part of the management. 

And then there’s the Mani restaurant. Aside from a sumptuous feast offered at breakfast every morning, dinner is outstanding. Great appetisers, called chuzpeles that are served like tapas and are best shared, offer diners a bit of everything so the whole table can experience the multifaceted cuisine. The staff are also so good about recommending various dishes and wine. 

Oh, and being a big fan of bicycle touring, you can use one of the hotel's pretty aqua bikes and go on a jaunt complete with an iPod that not only gives you music but a guided tour too. Best. 

Torstasse 136 | +49 (0) 30 53028080 | mani@amanogroup.de @AMANOgroup on Instagram & Twitter. Close by there is a laundromat, post office, tram stop and the U Bahn. The hotel will even sell you tickets for the latter...it's all so simple and well organised. I'd expect nothing less than that from the Mani and Berlin.

Welcome to the Mani...






Estelle, the ZooZoo basset hound...



Parzival the little lion snoozes on the mat...Oliver Rath photograph overhead..



ZooZoo giraffe...I miss my Africa...



Rooms that are beautifully appointed..



Best hotel slippers ever...




Scrambled eggs anyone?



I'm addicted to the cream cheese, topped with jam on a fresh bread roll


And a spot of tea...



The Mani restaurant with Esmeralda the ZooZoo alligator...



Wonderful food... olives as big as little green apples, from Greece...


The best of asparagus...the creme brûlée was tres unusual...



Details like this delicate slice of crispy orange 


And after all that eating, perhaps a cycle is a good idea?



The building at night...


Until next time...Estelle and I bid you gute nacht!



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Sunday, 21 December 2014

Castelo St Jorge, Lisbon


Today dawned with blue skies which meant it was perfect for a visit to the Castle of St George that sits on the tallest of Lisbon's '7 hills'. You can spot the impressive structure from most places in the city below. Sections of it date as far back as the 6th century when it was fortified by Romans and Visigoths and it was once the residence of the Moorish royal family. Much of the castle was destroyed in the great earthquake of 1755 but what still remains is an impressive amount of towers and long ramparts that offer tourists stunning views over Lisbon and the Tagus river.

On your way back down the hill, stop and have a pastry at Nata where I discovered it's best to scoop out the delish cream centre of a pasteis de nata with a teaspoon.

The castle is open daily from 09h and the entrance fee costs 8€. Check online for more info. 

On the way up to the castle >

  


Ancient archway > 




The castle ramparts >

Amazing city & beyond views >

Walkabout with a glass of wine? 


The most affectionate castle cat > 

And on the way down, a pastry at the famous Nata is a must... scoop out the creamy centre of a pasteis de Nata with a spoon... savour it ...

Like so >
#pastrysafari 

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