Cruising with wine down the Breede River...

The 

Picture this. A perfect summer's day, a picnic with cheese, wine & other delicacies and a slow cruise down the Breede River in one of the most beautiful areas of the Western Cape, the Robertson Wine Valley. Introducing Viljoensdrift and the slow boat.…

I was invited to experience their barge cruise and picnic two weeks ago. What a treat. From McGregor, where I was staying for the second weekend in a row (yes, that’s how much I love it), it’s a 10 minute drive to Viljoensdrift, scenically gorgeous too.

First thing you see on arrival at the estate is a lush green lawn dotted with people lazing about on the grass enjoying the beautiful outdoors. Inside I met Zonia Lategan one of the winemakers, Ashley Jaftha from Sales and Marketing and fortuitously, Fred Viljoen, one of two brothers who own this amazing farm. Turned out Fred and my husband Paul knew each other so while they chatted, I went with Ashley to select a few gourmet items from the well stocked deli for our on-board feast. My wine of choice was the Single Vineyard Pinotage 2014  Vitis Vinifera double gold winner 2015 and I could see why - so smooth, with “Incredible rich black red colour-superb balance…concentrated dense fruit, great complexity….”  to quote their own description. 

Feeling a bit like Red Riding Hood with my picnic basket in the crook of my arm, stuffed with delectables, I stepped onto the flat bottom boat, named Uncle Ben 2, with husband and son in tow, and off we sailed on a 50 minute cruise down the Breede. What glorious views flank the river and it was so fabulous to be able to enjoy it all over a glass or three of top notch vino, ciabatta rolls oozing ripe camembert and fig preserves, and smothered in smoked olive tapenade, boerkaas cheese and basil pesto. You should be having #fomo right about now!

The cruise costs only R50 for adults and includes a wine tasting prior to departure. For children between 3 and 12 years, it’s R20 pp.  The boat can accommodate 38 people and departs daily at 12:00pm, irrespective of the number of people. Thereafter trips are hourly depending on bookings (a minimum of 6 adults or a minimum amount of R300 will be required to let the boat depart).  Advanced bookings are essential via +27 23 615 1017 or email rivercruises@viljoensdrift.co.za. Check in time is 30 minutes prior to departure. Don’t be late*

With thanks to Mira Weiner from Hot Oven Marketing for this opportunity.

Eat, bray, love...a visit to the Eseltjiesrus Donkey Sanctuary..

The donkey, burro, ezel, asno, asino, ane, esel, asna, donkie.….this gentle long-eared creature has been mistreated and misunderstood over the centuries throughout the world. But for those living at the Eseltjierus Donkey Sanctuary near McGregor in the Western Cape (South Africa), the bad days are behind them and Life is good.   

Last weekend I visited Eseltjiesrus and met with the founder Johan van Zijl, a former psychologist who established the haven with his wife, officially opening it to the public in 2007. They have a dedicated team of volunteers working with them and David Kramer is the Patron.

Since the first two donkeys arrived, Vaal and Japie, they’ve taken in many more retired, destitute, elderly and abused donkeys from all over the region and further afield, working together with the SPCA, the police and Cart Horse Association.

Chatting to Johan, I learnt first hand about his journey into establishing the spacious 10 hectare farm, a much needed permanent refuge for the donkeys that also has a little restaurant, a shop with donkey-themed souvenirs, their own brand of wine and a small 2^nd hand bookshop. Their annual fundraising book fair in McGregor is a must on the cultural calendar of Robertson and surrounds.

What was wonderful for me was the chance to get up close and personal with the donkeys who come from various parts of the Western Cape, each with a story to tell, usually very sad. Ziggy, Alice, Thabo, Eeyore the oldest, and sweet Amy amongst others. My experience with her was very special- so affectionate, nudging and pressing against me for attention and a rub behind the ears. Give me any opportunity to connect with an animal and I'm so there.

A key focus of the Van Zijl’s is education via workshops in various towns like Mamre, McGregor and Genadendal. School groups, including children from schools for the deaf, blind and autistic, regularly visit the sanctuary. “It’s therapeutic for the children, the donkeys and for everyone else”, says Johan. There’s even a resource pack available for educators and learners to use, produced in conjunction with the Western Cape Education Department. “We encourage children to develop respect for donkeys, as well as for themselves, and their dogs and cats”, he added. “Donkeys are at times seen as objects of ridicule, without any champions, and we want to raise their profile.”

It is said that a donkey teaches you that humility is a strength, not a weakness. They’re actually cleverer than horses…the expression ‘don’t be a smart ass’ has to mean something right?  Just look into a donkey's eyes and you'll see for yourself that it is a special and intelligent animal.

Visit the Donkey Sanctuary and consider doing a virtual adoption to add your support to the project. www.donkeysanctuary.co.za / 027-23-6251593.  

EAT. BRAY. LOVE.

Johan van Zilj, founder of Eseltjiesrus Donkey Sanctuary

Amy...

Getting to know Amy...

A contemplative space...a memorial to donkeys who have passed where you can also lay a stone in memory of a loved one...

Donkey beauty...

Die donkie is 'n wonderlike ding...

McGregor staycation...one of my best escapes...

Staycation, McGregor. Please can I go back, tomorrow.  Lateral Paul and I have just spent a day and a night there and I can’t remember when last we arrived at a destination and morphed into relax mode in .5 seconds. 

McGregor is calm. I’ve 'staycated' at a fair amount of country villages over the last few months and I think McG takes my top spot for R&R in the true sense of the word. Lateral Paul loved it so much he’s thinking of buying property... yes please to that.

The town, established in the 19^th century, is in the heart of the Breede River winelands and is just as I imagine it to have been many moons ago. I’m told not much has changed over the past few decades, and therein lies its magic. I adore country towns but it’s quite rare nowadays to find somewhere so utterly peaceful….a place were tensions dissipate on arrival and city stress doesn’t stand a chance. White washed thatched houses, one main street and dusty side roads....my kind of happy place.

Ons Huisie, also called Almond Tree cottage, was where we stayed and we so loved it. It’s perfectly un-posh, rustic and unpretentious, with two bedrooms (sleeps four in total) and all the comforts. Well, not exactly all, as there’s no Wifi which turned out to be the best thing ever, as no digital means an opportunity to connect, read a book and be free from incessant Whats App notifications.

 Inside Ons Huisie... rustic charm, & lovely finishing touches...

First thing we did was flop into deck chairs in the self sustaining garden, a lovely space bordered by striking purple bougainvillea, succulents, climbing roses, cacti and hedges with brightly coloured little birds and a beautiful stray cat I fell in love with...

Milky cat beard... too sweet...

Come evening, we headed off to The Old Post Office, a famous whiskey bar that is reputed to have the second largest whiskey selection in the Cape, after the Bascule at the Cape Grace. We had delightful conversation with the owner, a Salford, UK native, called John Oldham. He also introduced us to a local beer brand called Saggy Stone. Since my trip to Tokyo 2 years ago, where beer was way more affordable than wine, and oh so tasty, I’ve become a froth fan so it was great to sample the local fare. Dinner was at the equally well known Karoux, an intimate restaurant space that seats around 20 pax indoors, run by Aimee and Ryan Josten. Excellent cuisine, a lovely ambience and they allowed us to take our own wine which was fabulous because it was a bottle of Springfield’s Work of Time, a Bordeaux style blend that is a masterpiece!

John from The Old Post Office...

Karoux restaurant, amazing by day or night...

Sunday morning found us having breakfast at Tebaldi’s at Temenos, where Lateral Paul immediately made friends with a local olive farmer. After making swift work of my poached eggs, I left him to chat and ambled off meet a friend at How Bazaar and buy lunch at Dudley’s Larder, the little deli next to Karoux, owned by Aimee and Ryan, that stocks delish cheeses, charcuterie, free range duck eggs and more. Suffice to say our lunch on the stoep at Ons Huisie was a sumptuous feast, with superb chardonnay from Springfield (currently my absolute fave wine brand) and an excellent local red.

The best in locally sourced wine, cheese, asparagus, bread rolls, all from Dudley's Larder...

So if you need an escape, for any amount of days, take a drive along the jaw droppingly beautiful Route 62 and head off to McGregor. Let your only distraction be listening to the birds and watching bees plunge headlong into flowers-I kid you not, I had time to notice that, as the picture below proves. 

Embrace the slowness why don't you. I’ve already booked to go back, so watch this space for Part ll of my McG getaway as I plan to do way more that you’ll find really interesting.

Bee going bottoms up...

Invigorating!

My staycation at Ons Huisie was courtesy of the efficient and welcoming Mira Weiner from McGregor Country Getaways, info@mcgregor-accommodation.co.za / 076 411 9477.

I'm @allisonfoat on all my social media platforms – follow me, I’ll take you places.

Photos taken by myself on a Canon DSLR 600D and iPhone 6+